2003 — 2009
5.7L V8 Hemi (EZB)
Petrol
Perform a cold start after the vehicle has sat overnight and listen closely to the engine bay for a metallic ticking sound that increases with RPM. | Note: Commonly known as the 'Hemi Tick'. This is often caused by broken exhaust manifold bolts (relatively cheap to fix) but can also indicate lifter roller failure and camshaft wear, which requires an expensive top-end engine rebuild.
Drive at 80-100 km/h on a coarse-chip NZ highway, then safely simulate hitting a pothole or bump to check for violent front-end shaking. | Note: This heavy chassis is notorious for the 'Death Wobble', caused by worn track bar bushings, ball joints, or steering dampers. Repairing the entire front steering geometry with heavy-duty parts is costly.
Cycle the automatic transmission through all gears under load, and check for shuddering or hesitation when the torque converter locks up. | Note: The 545RFE automatic transmission is a weak point, especially if the vehicle was used in NZ for heavy towing (boats, horse floats) without an auxiliary cooler or regular fluid servicing.
Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock at low speeds on a flat surface, feeling for binding, excessive play, or knocking under your feet. | Note: Most 3rd Gen RAMs in NZ are Right-Hand Drive conversions. The quality of these conversions varies wildly; inspect the steering box, drop pitman arm, and custom welds for stress fractures and play.
Perform a standard engine oil and filter change (using high-quality 5W-20 or 5W-30). Greasing of all front suspension and steering linkage zerk fittings, especially on converted RHD components.
Replace all 16 spark plugs (2 per cylinder is standard on the 5.7L Hemi). Flush and replace the automatic transmission fluid (ATF+4) along with both internal filters. Service the transfer case and front/rear differentials.
Inspect and likely replace front-end wear items including ball joints, tie rod ends, and the track bar. Replace the water pump, thermostat, and serpentine belt. Inspect the exhaust manifolds for snapped rear studs.
Verify the condition and grease level of the front driveshaft double-cardan joint (often missed during servicing).
Inspect the steering gear box stabilizer bracket (if fitted) to ensure it is tight and reducing shaft flex.
Check the plastic radiator end-tanks for hairline cracks and pressure-test the cooling system.
Clean the electronic throttle body regularly to prevent carbon buildup and erratic idle or stalling issues.
Check the RHD steering conversion shaft universal joints for play, binding, or lack of lubrication.
Estimated repair costs if issues arise
Upgrading to heavy-duty aftermarket components (like Synergy or Carli) to permanently cure steering play and 'death wobble'.
Replacing broken rear manifold studs. Often requires pulling the cylinder heads or tedious drilling in tight spaces, plus machining warped manifolds.
Sourcing or rebuilding the specialized steering box used in the local RHD conversion. Parts often must be sourced from Australia or custom manufactured.
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Disclaimer: This report is generated with the assistance of AI analysis based on verified automotive data. While we strive for 100% accuracy, enthusiasts should always conduct physical inspections and consult service records. View Full Disclaimer