2000 — 2004
1.7L I4 Turbo (OM668.940)
Diesel
Drive the car until fully warm, testing shifts under moderate acceleration and engaging reverse several times. | Advice:
Run the cabin heater at idle and sniff the vents for a pungent diesel/gassy smell, then check under the engine cover for black, coal-like deposits. | Advice:
Drive over speed bumps and rough roads, listening for distinct knocking or creaking noises from the rear axle area. | Advice:
Turn the steering wheel fully lock-to-lock at a standstill while listening for a high-pitched whine or groaning noise. | Advice:
Perform a standard synthetic oil and filter change using Mercedes-Benz approved MB 229.31/229.51 low-ash oil. Drain and inspect the diesel fuel filter for water contamination, and check the front brake pads.
Perform a critical automatic transmission fluid (ATF) and filter change. Inspect the serpentine belt and tensioners (wear here is common and requires lowering the engine slightly to service). Replace the fuel filter and air filter.
Conduct a comprehensive inspection of the engine mounts, suspension bushings, and glow plugs. Proactively replace the diesel injector copper seals to prevent 'Black Death' buildup, and flush the coolant and brake fluid.
Verify the diesel fuel injectors are free of carbon buildup and the hold-down bolts are tight during every major service.
Keep the cowl drainage channels below the windscreen clear of leaves to prevent rainwater from flooding the cabin and damaging electrical modules.
Ensure the automatic transmission fluid is changed strictly every 50,000 to 60,000 km to prolong the life of the fragile valve body.
Inspect the front constant velocity (CV) joint boots and steering rack gaiters for splits or grease leaks, which are common on NZ's winding roads.
Use only high-quality, low-ash synthetic oil to prevent soot buildup in the exhaust system and EGR valve.
Estimated repair costs if issues arise
If the transmission control unit or clutch packs fail, a specialized rebuild is required. Parts are hard to source in NZ, and labor is intensive.
Due to the unique sandwich-chassis design, the starter and alternator are buried. Replacing either component requires dropping the entire engine and subframe assembly, resulting in huge labor costs.
If carbon buildup has seized the injectors, extraction requires specialized slide-hammer tools, seat recutting, and potential injector replacement if they are damaged during removal.
Noticed something inaccurate or missing?Suggest an edit→
Disclaimer: This report is generated with the assistance of AI analysis based on verified automotive data. While we strive for 100% accuracy, enthusiasts should always conduct physical inspections and consult service records. View Full Disclaimer