Peugeot 106

Find an uneven Kiwi backroad or empty carpark, turn the radio off, and listen closely for metallic knocking, clicking, or creaking sounds from the rear of the car. Step outside and visually inspect if the rear wheels are leaning inwards at the top (negative camber). | Note: The rear trailing arm needle bearings are notorious for wearing out, allowing moisture in and seizing. If caught late, it wears into the axle tube itself, requiring a complete rear axle beam rebuild or replacement, which is highly expensive in NZ due to scarce parts.

Allow the car to idle up to operating temperature. Check the coolant expansion tank for signs of bubbling, 'mayonnaise-like' oil sludge under the oil filler cap, or excessive sweet-smelling white smoke from the exhaust. | Note: The 1.5L TUD5 diesel features an aluminum block with cast-iron liners. It is extremely sensitive to overheating. Any cooling system neglect quickly leads to head gasket failure or a warped cylinder head.

Ensure the engine is completely cold before starting. Turn the key to 'ON', observe how long the glow plug light remains illuminated, and listen for how quickly the engine fires up and whether it runs smoothly or coughs with gray smoke. | Note: A hard cold-start accompanied by smoke usually indicates worn glow plugs or a faulty pre-heating relay. In colder NZ climates (especially the South Island), tired glow plugs will leave you stranded.

Inspect the boot floor under the spare wheel carpet, the sills, and the front inner wing structures beneath the battery tray using a torch. | Note: While Peugeot's galvanizing was decent for the era, water ingress from deteriorated tail light seals or sunroof drains can cause severe rust in the boot floor, leading to a structural WOF failure.